You don't have to own a construction business to need or want a power tool or two. They make life much easier, that's for sure. Time is money, right? Whether you're an avid DIYer or just do the occasional job around the house, power tools, at least one, should be in your life. And if you're a DIY enthusiast, they are a must.

For most people, the drill is the first power tool that makes its way in their heart. Some graduate to circular saws or jigsaws. So, what makes a good power tool and is cheaper better or worse in the long run?

First, we need to clarify the language a bit. Often you'll hear that "cheaper" isn't better. Like most people, you probably think this has to do with price, but it doesn't. Inexpensive is just fine. What you don't want is cheap quality. Most of the time this means staying away from anything that isn't brand name. Sure, these low-quality tools that are often extremely inexpensive will work today, but most give out quickly. You'll soon realize that it's costing you more money to buy lower-quality, less inexpensive power tools. It just isn't worth the immediate little savings.

When someone is heading to the hardware or online store to buy their first power tool, they can be ahead of the game by remembering one thing: never, ever skimp when buying power tools.

How much is your safety worth? Lower-quality power tools might be less expensive, but they are also less safe. Yes, all power tools aren't created equal in the safety department. I don't know about you, but my safety is worth much more than a few dollars savings. Again, this is another reason why the small discount isn't worth it.

When buying a power tool try to think of the job at hand and what you're likely to do with it. For instance, if you plan on doing just light jobs, you wouldn't need to buy the industrial-strength drill. However, if you're on the worksite, quality, durability, safety and power count.

In the market for some saws? Before you leap, look at portable jigsaws. They are multi-taskers-get more for your power tool dollar. A jigsaw is able to do the job of many other saws, such as scroll saws, bandsaws and circular saws. It's also more versatile. Take a look at any basic workshop or worksite with a knowledgeable person at the helm and you'll find at least one jigsaw.

From drills and saws to sanders and routers, power tools make projects easier to complete. They also help us do things that look more professionally. As with any job, make sure you always wear the proper safety equipment and operate the power tools according to their manuals. Good-quality power tools are affordable and they can be found at prices that will make you very happy.

I hope you enjoy your power tools as much as I enjoy mine. Remember, buy quality tools for durability, safety and long-term savings. Never, ever skimp when buying power tools and you'll be just fine.

For high-quality, but dirt cheap, reconditioned power tools, click the power tools link.

You can find other air power tools at a deep discount at Air-Power-Tools.com.

Liven up the worksite by getting a worksite radio at a cheap price from WorksiteRadios.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jake_Strong

Labels: Machinery Tool

My friends don't think much about my plans to build a sawhorse. Maybe they remember their dads all bent over cutting boards with a handsaw. They probably think power tools have made the sawhorse obsolete. Maybe they think the plastic kind work fine. I say that a wood sawhorse may be one of the most valuable (and forgotten) shop accessories I will own. Here are a few reasons why.

Workbench vs Sawhorse: Which is Stronger?
Unlike the straight legs on a workbench, sawhorse legs tilt outwards from the top (splayed). Mechanical engineers know that this immediately adds strength to any kind of structure. Add to that a couple of side braces (gussets) and it becomes an indestructible frame that can effortlessly hold hundreds of pounds. A workbench, on the other hand, is more likely to wobble over time, and will need to have its joinery tightened up periodically.

Get Up Close to Your Project
My biggest complaint with most shop work tables is that one side of my project always seems to be unreachable. Using a sawhorse can solve this problem quite nicely. The open-frame design lets me easily move around a project during construction, and move in close to sections that would otherwise be hard to reach.

Using a Sawhorse as a Clamping Station
Seems like I'm always searching for someplace to clamp a board. I try to use the work tables in my shop, but sometimes my clamps don't fit over the edge of the table top very well, and I end up with lose, floppy boards. Now I'm convinced that the best place to clamp boards in on a sawhorse. The 2x6s and 2x4s that most sawhorses are built from make perfect surfaces for clamping. And 2x lumber is thin enough that I can get by using smaller clamps. That definitely saves me a few bucks at the home center.

Using a Sawhorse to Cut Large Panels
Cutting down large sheets of plywood can be a pain. If I'm not down on my hands and knees in the garage, then I'm precariously trying to balance a 4 x8 sheet on the edge of a table. If I can get a couple sawhorses built, I will instantly have one of the best panel cutting stations I've seen. Simply add a 1x4 board across the bottom of each sawhorse to serve as a support for the plywood sheet. Then position a sawhorse at each end of the panel and lift the plywood up onto the supports. Be sure to clamp both sides of the plywood to the sawhorses. You can then use a circular saw and a ripping guide to safely cut down a plywood panel into any size you need - without ever having to get down on the floor.

See Sawhorse Plans

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andy_Duframe

Labels: Machinery Tool

You can always find large, expansive charts of screw sizes, but do you really need that many choices? My list for woodworking is now down to four, and I rarely have a project that needs anything more than that.

All-Purpose Wood screw - #8 x 1 - 1/4"
This is the real workhorse in my shop. Most of my projects use 3/4 inch plywood mounted to a piece of 3/4 inch solid wood. This #8 screw is the perfect length for bonding these two pieces together - without it poking through the other side. I also like the size of the shank, which is just large enough to resist breaking, but not too large that it splits the wood.

Perfect for Thin Wood - #6 x 3/4"
With thinner pieces of wood (like 1/2 inch), I need a shorter wood screw to hold everything together. A #6 x 3/4 inch screw is perfect for the job. The length is just right for bonding 1/2 inch stock, and since the wood is a little thinner than what I normally use, I can go with a smaller shank.

Going into End Grain - #8 x 2"
Putting screws into end grain creates a few problems. The edge of a board just isn't as durable as the face, and wood fibers easily crumble when you try to drive in a woodscrew, not to mention that this is an easy way to split the board. The only way to avoid these problems is to drill a deep pilot hole, include countersinking for the shank and head, and then use a longer screw.

The Big-Job Wood screw - #10 x 3"
I'm always finding some occasion where I need to mount things to the 2x4 studs in my basement. All of the screw sizes I've mentioned so far just won't do the job when it comes to putting up shelves, cabinets, and other heavy items in my shop. I don't use this large of a woodscrew very often, but when the need arises, I'm always glad I have a small supply on hand.

More woodworking screw sizes

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andy_Duframe

Labels: Machinery Tool

Buying air power tools for the first time can be a daunting task-as can finding the right tool anytime. In an effort to make your eventual purchase more enjoyable and rewarding, I'm presenting you with this air power tools buying guide. I'd recommend printing it out or bookmarking this article as a guide.

The first thing you need to know is that there's an air power tool for virtually any job out there-and I mean any job. And the second crucial point to remember is that all air power tools require a separate air compressor. Many first-time tool buyers don't realize this or forget. Keep that in the back of your mind always.

Let's talk about air compressors for a moment. They are not all the same. When you buy an air power tool, it will have a PSI (pressure per square inch) rating. You need a air compressor with the same PSI capability. It should go without saying that your air hoses and connections must match perfectly. You want a tight fit.

Two main types of air compressors are: compact and piston-type.

Compact compressors don't use a tank to store compressed air. As such, the compact compressor runs while giving your tool the air it requires. The benefit of compact compressors are the ability to take them anywhere with ease, because they are small and light. However, this is a tradeoff. While being small and light, they lack power. If you're going to doing any power painting, for instance, a compact compressor will most likely be inadequate.

Piston-type compressors, on the other hand, are more powerful. They have a tank that stores the compressed air. The compressor doesn't need to run constantly like the compact compressors do. Instead, it only runs when the air needs to be adjusted back to a certain pressure. The piston-type compressors have two stage models-single and double. If you're doing a heady-duty job, it's best to get a double-stage compressor.

Perhaps one of the most common air power tool bought is a nail gun, so let's go over some quick basics about them.

Nail guns come in two main varieties: coil and stick. A coil-based nail gun holds the nails in a drum-like container. Typically, these guns will hold a few hundred nails. The stick-based nail guns are for your smaller, general jobs. They usually hold a couple dozen or so nails. Unless you're doing some construction or a very large project, a stick-based gun will do the job.

When buying an air-powered nail gun, think about what you intend to use it for. Many nail guns are built with a specific task in mind. Some examples of task-based nail guns are: framing nail guns, finishing nail guns, roofing nail guns, etc.

Finishing nail guns are more for your light work, while framing nail guns are for heavy-duty work.

Just like anything great in life, air power tools come in a variety of sizes and loaded features. As to brands, that's really a personal question. Some people become loyal to specific brands. If you're not sure what to look for, try Bostitch, Craftsman, DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Porter-Cable first.

You can find other air power tools at a deep discount at Air-Power-Tools.com.

For high-quality, but dirt cheap, reconditioned power tools, click the power tools link.

Liven up the work place by getting a worksite radio at a cheap price from WorksiteRadios.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jake_Strong

Labels: Machinery Tool

If you've decided to install new bamboo flooring in your home and don't intend to pay someone else to do the installation, you'll want to be sure you have all the right tools to get the job done right. Here's a list of the basic you'll need to have handy. Write down this list and check them off as you put them in the tool box.

Circular Saw - This is the round saw that's used for cutting the floor boards themselves.

Screwdriver - for removing and tightening screws.

Electric Drill and drill bits - This is for drilling starter holes for nails and screws. If using a hand screwdriver is too time consuming you can also get screwdriver bit attachments for your drill.

Hammer - For general nailing.

Prybar - For removing any damaged pieces but also used for holding the final board in position while nailing it down.

Butt Chisel - Great for removing the baseboards along the walls.

Putty Knife - Useful if you need to use wood putty or any adhesives.

Nailset - This has a smaller point on the end. You hit it with a hammer to drive the nail deeper than the wood surface. You would then fill in those holes and stain or paint to match. Sometimes they are left open if it's a deliberate part of the design.

Tape Measure - For measuring the length of rooms, boards, anything. Essential in the initial design, also helpful when cutting boards to be sure they are the appropriate length. Remember to measure twice, cut once.

Chalk Line or Laser Line - this marks the line against which you are working or aligning boards. A chalk line actually snaps down a line of true chalk. If you don't want the mess of that you can upgrade to a laser line which shoots a beam of light along your chosen path.

Carpenter's Square - this is for general use to make sure edges are square and line up with each other. Also useful in the initial design.

For more information about installing bamboo flooring or on purchasing discount bamboo flooring please visit our website.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alana_Tanner

Labels: Machinery Tool

If you are in the market for an air cleaner, you have probably looked at air cleaner reviews to compare features such as cost, square footage, filter make-up and more. Wading through the information can sometimes be daunting as there are so many abbreviations and undefined terms leaving you unsure about what the real advantages are for any of the cleaners. Below are 5 of the most common terms found in air cleaner reviews; what they mean, and how they benefit you.

dB Decibels of Sound

A decibel is to sound as an inch is to size. Decibels are the units of measurement used for sound. Silence is measured at 0 dB, a whisper is measured at 15 dB, and conversation is measured at 60 dB. How much sound you want your air cleaner to emit is a personal preference. Some like a cleaner that gives off white noise, particularly in the bedroom, because for some it facilitates sleep. Others, prefer an almost silent cleaner. These ranges should help you determine how the air cleaner you choose will sound.

CFM Cubic Feet per Minute

Cubic feet per minute measures air flow, specifically how much air passes a stationary point every 60 seconds. The greater the air flow an air cleaner is able to produce, the more room air changes your cleaner is able to make, resulting in less pollutant build up.

AHAM Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers

This organization verifies the testing results of home appliances such as refrigerators, room air conditioners, humidifiers and room air cleaners. As a member of this organization, a manufacturer has allowed their air cleaners to be tested by an independent third party laboratory to give the consumer an unbiased overview of product effectiveness.

CADR Clean Air Delivery Rate

If the manufacturer of your air cleaner is a member of the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM), The AHAM seal will appear on the back of the box and will always list three CADR numbers - one for tobacco smoke, one for pollen and one for dust. The CADR indicates volume of filtered air delivered by an air cleaner. The higher the tobacco smoke, pollen and dust numbers, the faster the unit filters the air, making them more effective in literally clearing the air.

CADR 2/3 Rule for Tobacco Smoke

According to the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers, choose an air cleaner with a clean air delivery rate that is at 2/3 the size of your room. So a room measuring 120 square feet would require an air cleaner with a clean air delivery rate of at least 80. Placing this cleaner in a smaller room would mean the air would be cleaned more often and faster.

Understanding these terms, and the benefits they afford you will help insure that you find the best air cleaner for you, your family, and your lifestyle.

Take good care,
Debbie Davis

Debbie Davis is President of PurerAir.com which offers HEPA air purifiers for the improvement of indoor air quality. Visit us now and see the Blueair 402 Air Cleaner with Smokestop filter and CADR of 240, or call our 24 hour customer support line at (800) 997-2989 for expert advice.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Debbie_Davis

Labels: Machinery Tool

Training is the first step in tool safety. Initial training includes two components one of general awareness training and two, operational training. General awareness training is can be in the form of reading the information included with the tool. Operational training can be done by taking a class on the tool's use and safety factors needing to be addressed; this class should include information and operational (hands-on) training, pre-operational procedures, basic maintenance procedures, and what appropriate personal protective equipment is required.

Before using a tool:

Locate and put on necessary and appropriate personal protective equipment.

Check for loose fitting clothing and jewelry and remove if they can entangle with the use of the tool.

Look at the work area and make sure it is well lit, dry, and clean before beginning work.

Tools must be inspected prior to use to ensure that that it is in good working order. If there are defects, don't use and make the necessary repairs. Next check the guards if applicable. Tools with guards must meet these minimum general requirements:

Be secure - Removable guards are in place on the machine or equipment before use.

Prevent contact - Guards prevent any part of any employee's body and clothing from making contact with dangerous moving parts.

Protect from falling objects - Guards ensure that no objects can fall into moving parts.

If a guard is defective or damaged, the tool is defective and needs to be repaired. Do not defeat these guards.

For operation of the tool:

Always use the proper tool for the right job.

Do not remove a guard for any reason while operating tools.

Electric cables and cords must be kept clean and free from kinks.

Do not carry the tool by its cord.

All necessary personal protective equipment is worn while using the tool.

If you are distracted while using the tool, stop work with the tool.

When done with a tool, basic maintenance must be performed, for example the tool should be kept sharp, oiled, and stored properly, as appropriate.

By following these pointers, working with power tools will be safe and the tools will also have a longer.

Brent Bowlin is a health and safety researcher who has helped businesses in implementing safety programs. For help contact him at abbsafetynet@gmail.com and for safety supplies go to http://www.safetysuppliescanada.com, they deliver anywhere.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brent_A_Bowlin

Labels: Machinery Tool

Is your chainsaw starting to seem dull and not perform as well? Looks like it's time to replace the chain. In order to do this, you will need to know the length of both the chainsaw blade as well as the length and size of your chain. If you've checked out the manufacturers' charts, they might seem a little overwhelming. But it really is pretty simple once you understand what's involved in the length of the blade and chainsaw chain.

When you're ready to replace your chain, the first thing to do is determine the size of your chainsaw bar. If you happen to have an Oregon chainsaw, this should be easy. Just check the first two numbers of the ten-digit model number that is stamped on the motor end of the blade. That's your chainsaw bar length.

Don't have an Oregon chainsaw that easily shows you the length of the blade? Then here are some tips for figuring it out yourself.

What's The Best Way To Measure A Chain Saw Blade?

To measure the chainsaw blade itself is simple enough to do. Just put your measuring tape at the end of the bar up against the casing and measure straight down the bar all the way to the tip of the blade.

Blade and bar are two terms that are both used to indicate the same item. This is the blade that extends from the casing of the motor and carries the chain which is what does the sawing for you.

Manufacturers were kind enough to standardize the chainsaw blade lengths into two-inch increments. The most common sizes are 16, 18, and 20 inches although the full range goes from 10 to 42 inches! When you measure your blade, round up to the nearest 2-inch measurement if needed.

Measuring A Chainsaw Chain

To measure the chain on your chainsaw, there are two things you will need to know ... the number of drive links and the pitch of the chain.

A drive link is simply a tooth on the chain and your chain's length is determined by the number of drive links (or teeth). The pitch of the chain also affects the size of the drive links.

The pitch of the chain is important to know as it must match the pitch of both the drive sprocket as well as the bar nose sprocket. This should be stamped on the drive link but if you need to measure the pitch yourself, take the distance between any 3 rivets of the chain and divide by 2.

As an example, a 1/4" pitch chain might have 52 drive links and be 2.17 feet in length, while a 3/8" pitch with 52 drive links would be 3.18 feet in length. So the pitch affects the drive link size which affects your blade's length.

Still unsure? Just check with your chain saw's manufacturer or anyone who makes chains and they will be able to clear up any confusion you may have.

So now that you know how to measure a chainsaw chain and chainsaw blade and are ready to buy your replacement, check out the deals that update daily at ChainsawDeals.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Cullen_Blakeman

Labels: Machinery Tool

Last fall while exploring some interesting trails around our rural property I noticed how some brush had been quickly growing in around the trails I liked to hike.

I didn't have my chainsaw with me having just come from work. I did however, have all of my contractor tools including my cordless power tools out in the truck. Maybe the cordless reciprocating saw would work in a pinch to clear some of the brush. We call it the 'saws-all' on the job site because it will cut nearly anything from shingles or 2x6 to nails. I was just looking around when a real nice deer scampered away. He had obviously been watching me.

After the six-pointer scampered away I hurried to the truck and retrieved the De Walt 18 volt reciprocating saw. I put in a new blade specially designed for cutting wood and quickly trimmed the trails.

THE POSSIBILITIES ARE ENDLESS

Taking a deep breath and relaxing a few minutes I suddenly realized I could use my cordless tools for more than just building houses. The reciprocating saw had made short work of that brush. It was quiet and much lighter than my chainsaw. So I took a fresh look at possible uses of all of my cordless power tools.

The next week we were heading off to our remote moose camp and I decided to pack the cordless tools as well. The old camp was in need of some repairs and I figured the cordless drill and trim saw would work fine for what I needed. The guys kind of razzed me about not leaving work at home but after fixing the plumbing and putting in a new set of front steps all in about an hour they quickly changed their tune about my cordless power tools.

With one day left in our moose hunt Mike finally shot a small bull. It was behind a small pond quite a distance from the road and a discussion ensued on how to get the animal back to camp. Finally it was decided we would have to cut a trail to the downed bull. For an hour we took turns with the chainsaw to clear a path and then the saw blew a piston ring about 100 yards from the bull. What now?

I remembered the cordless power tools, in particular the saws-all and ran back to camp to fetch it. Although it was a little slower, it did the job.

We have since used our cordless power tools for such varied jobs as building a firewood drier and cutting holes for ice fishing. The possibilities are truly endless.

WHAT TO BUY?

As a contractor I buy the very best tools I can. My 18 volt DeWalt Cordless kit cost $600 cdn. but was well worth it. It came with a charger, 4 batteries, light, trim saw, drill, and reciprocating saw. All of these cordless power tools are rechargeable and durable.

For the weekend outdoor enthusiast I have seen cordless drills as low as $19 and kits for $119. Decide how often you will use it and buy accordingly. One word of caution though- try and buy the higher voltage tools (18 volts) as the extra power always is worth the extra dollars.

Only a few short years ago cordless power tools were only 12 volts and pretty wimpy compared to their 110 volt AC counterparts. Not anymore. 18 Volt cordless power tools are powerful and resilient- perfect for the outdoorsman or do it yourselfer.

SAFTEY CONCERNS

I do a lot of hunting from tree stands and trimming up impeding tree limbs is all part of successful bow hunting. Chainsaws can be extremely dangerous so I always wear protective clothing and a hard hat, just as I was taught in the chainsaw operator's course. I do it- but I don't like it. Hanging from a branch, tied off to a limb above my head just wasn't fun. When I started packing the cordless saw instead the job got a whole lot safer and a whole lot more fun. I could concentrate on trimming only the necessary branches instead of making the safest cuts. It really helped using cordless power tools.

GO CORDLESS! WHY?

The more we started using our cordless power tools the more benefits became apparent. Not only could we use them at work but at any site without power lines.

Our family have been living off the grid for 14 years now. We have tried to make renewable energy a part of our life's work. Rechargeable batteries are a socially responsible alternative to fossil fuel power. There are no toxic fumes involved operating cordless power tools and the batteries can be repaired if they ever fail.

As publishers of Living Off The Grid online magazine every decision we make in our own lifestyle has to be in tune with our renewable energy focus. With a solar charger, ATV battery and small inverter power tools are always at your fingertips awaiting any project you set your mind to. Not only are cordless power tools socially and environmentally more responsible - they are quiet.

Are you looking for other uses for Cordless Power Tools, How about for Cordless Power Tools for Off Grid Living

I hear. The snort of a big bull moose, the 'woof' of a bear as he catches your scent or even the chatter of a chipmunk all enhance my outdoor experience. Any mechanical aid that we use to enhance our outdoor experience should fit this focus as much as possible. The drone of a chainsaw is a foreign sound in the wilderness.

Use your cordless power tools whenever possible.

Are you looking for Cordless Power Tools.

Our family has been living off the grid since last year, and loving every minute of it.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bill_Temple

Labels: Machinery Tool